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CARE OF THE COMMON FEEDER COCKROACH SPECIES
LOBSTER COCKROACH INFORMATION
Lobster Roach, a.k.a Cuban brown roach,
(Nauphoeta cinerea)
climber, can "flutter fall"
Lobster roaches (Nauphoeta cinerea) are a tropical roach from Caribbean. They measure 3/16� when born to 1 1/2" in length as adults. They do have wings but are unable to fly. They will sometimes jump and "flutter fall" to the ground. Lobster roaches can climb smooth surfaces such as plastic, glass, wood etc. Since they can climb, some people are unsure of how to feed them to their animals. There is a section here with feeding methods that are common. They are a nocturnal species meaning they are mainly active at night and are very shy when disturbed during the day. Although adults have wings they are unable to fly. Some adults will "flutter fall" for short distances. Adults have a life span of about 1 year.
Keeping and Care
Housing lobster roaches is very easy. Any containers such as Sterlite or Rubbermaid storage bins or glass aquariums work. Sterlite containers work best but aquariums are also usable. The larger the Rubbermaid tub the more roaches you can fit in it. Keep in mind lobsters do climb so a taller container would be best. To prevent the roaches from climbing out of the cage line the top 2-3� of the container with Vaseline, cooking oil, or olive oil. When the roaches climb they won't go past this line because it is slick and they cannot get hold of it. About every 2-5 months(whenever the Vaseline dries out or gets dirty) you will need to wipe it off and put new on. This is also a good time to clean the container and split the colony if needed. Another thing to keep in mind is not to overcrowd them. A sure sign of this would be missing antennas. Overcrowding can also slow production and cause too much competition for food and hiding areas.
Provide plenty of hiding places. This can be achieved by placing a few egg flats in the cage. This will let them hide and feel more comfortable. If not enough hiding areas aren't provided the colony can become overcrowded quickly, production will decrease and death would be more likely.
Temperature and Humidity
Like most roaches, lobsters like it hot Hot HOT, the hotter the better. Keep them around 90F or even 95F. During the summer days roaches experience high temperatures around 100-108F and this is when production is the highest. Remember when they are this hot they will eat more and need more water to be happy and healthy. If you ever see chewed or tattered wings, they aren't getting enough moisture. While molting, their exoskeleton provides almost no protection and the other water starved roaches will munch on the wings before the exoskeleton hardens. You can also mist your roaches if you live in a dry area. Ambient humidity should be 40%-50%. Humidity that is higher then 55% or over misting them will just provide an environment that is great for mold and bacteria. In most areas there is enough humidity when temperatures are at 90 degrees. You can use UTH heaters with these but be sure to give them a thermal gradient, that way if you have a hot day your roaches won't cook because the can get away from the UTH
Feed
Lobster roaches do best on a high protein, high fat diet. Many use cat food, dog food, fish food Avoid anything with unnatural color enhancers in all of the dry pet feeds, and add fruit and vegetable scraps, old bread, and even meat scraps at times. With any "fresh" food, you need to make sure that it is eaten within about 24 hours so you don't breed bacteria and mold.
Lobster Roaches, Why are they better than crickets?
Lobster roaches have a bigger stomach than crickets. What does that mean to you? The lobster roaches have more of the good food you feed them in their stomach when your pet eats them. They live longer..WAY longer than crickets. Lobster roaches will live approximately 1 year and the lifespan of a cricket is only a few weeks. Roaches have a lower exoskeleton to meat ratio than crickets which means more usable food and less poop per bug. 1 adult lobster roach is equal to 2 or even 3 adult crickets.
If you feed glass climbing roaches, you need to keep them in the enclosure.
Here are a few ways to keep them in that work.
If you are feeding monitors or other scavenger type lizards, just freeze the roaches and thaw them when you need to feed your critters. They keep for at least a few weeks without getting freezer burnt. Feed them at room temperature.
You can feed your insectivorous animals in a separate enclosure(another Rubbermaid container works well) with an olive or cooking oil barrier.
You can feed them in their own enclosure with an olive or cooking oil barrier.
Use a dish with the cooking or olive oil around the lip. MAKE SURE YOUR CRITTER CAN'T KNOCK OVER THE BOWL!!!!
Tell the roaches to chill out. If you cool them in the fridge (just till they slow down , check em' often to make sure they don't freeze to death) they will be slower and easier for your critter to catch.
TURKISTAN REDS GENERAL INFORMATION
a.k.a rusty reds, red racers, pics up soon
(Blatta lateralis)
climber, males can and will occasionally fly.
Turkistan roaches are from the semi-desert regions in the middle east. They were introduced to the United States in the late 50s possibly 60's by military personal that brought them back from the regions unknowingly. Today you can find these in Texas, California, and Arizona. These are smaller than N. cineara ( lobster roach) and very fast. They will reach about 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 inches in total length making these the perfect non-glass climbing cricket replacement. These roaches drop egg cases on the egg flats and the bottom of the cage. The nymphs are pinhead cricket sized and may reptile breeders have made the switch to the blatta lateralis nymphs in situations where pinhead crickets were once the standard. These have a lifespan of approximately one year.
Keeping and Care
A good Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin with aluminum screen hot-melt glued into holes that are cut into the lid, is required. The males will occasionally fly, however these roaches cannot climb glass or plastic so no roach barrier is required. Use whatever size bin you deem appropriate for your needs, or even aquarium if that is all you have access to. I prefer to use bins that are 3-5 inches taller then the egg flats. Bins are lighter than glass, virtually indestructible, and cheaper then aquariums. Provide plenty of hiding spaces using egg flats and give them lots of food and water gel. I can fit about 3-4 thousand adults in a 30 gallon Rubbermaid and there is still plenty of room for the babies they will produce, for some time .
Temperature and Humidity and Breeding
Like most roaches, the reds like it hot. My bins hit temperatures of 108 in the summer and I keep the blatta lateralis 95-100 normally. Humidity is very important for these roaches as they drop ootheca ( egg cases) that contain 20-30 eggs as often as every 2 weeks. The ootheca take 2-4 weeks to hatch, although I have heard of longer from some breeders. This is usually caused by low temperatures and humidity. The eggs won't hatch at all if the humidity is too low, and if it is just low only some will hatch while others dry out and die. You can use UTH heaters, but be sure to give them a thermal gradient, that way if you have a hot day your roaches won't cook because the can get away from the UTH
Feed
These normally eat organic material in the wild. In captivity, it is best to feed them a well rounded diet high in protein and fat. Many use cat food, dog food, fish food (I avoid anything with unnatural color enhancers in all of the dry pet feeds), and add fruit and vegetable scraps, old bread, and even meat scraps at times. With any "fresh" food you need to make sure that it is eaten within about 24 hours so you don't breed bacteria and mold.
MADAGASCAR HISSERS GENERAL INFORMATION
Giant Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, a.k.a. hissers,
(Gromphadorhina portentosa)
climbing, non flying
Hissers come from the huge island country off the coast of Africa called Madagascar. These are a tropical species that gets very large, with adults achieving 3 to 4 inches. There are several variations and colorations that the name Madagascar hisser encompasses. Their general care however is the same. Madagascar hissers can live 2-3 years and some can achieve ages of 5 years under absolute optimum conditions. Many people keep a few hissers as pets because they are so entertaining and docile.
Keeping and Care
These roaches can be kept as simple as the other species or as elaborate as you like. I use a Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin and position the egg crates vertically. You can use UTH heaters with these but be sure to give them a thermal gradient, that way if you have a hot day your roaches won't cook because the can get away from the UTH. I have seen people who stack them horizontally although the mouse sized poops from the adults will build up quickly. When set in the cage or bin vertically the poops fall tho the floor of the cage. I do not use substrate as it can give places for fungus, mold, bacteria, ect to grow. Desired temperatures can be achieved by UTH heating, flexwatt, a light bulb over the cage in a metal reflector ( don't melt the plastic bin if that's what you use) or having a room dedicated and heated for the roaches. Hissers can climb glass and plastic so you must use a bug barrier such as Super Slick Roach Barrier. Adult male hissers will battle for territory and females by ramming each other with their horns or shoving with their abdomens. Often times the bigger male will win and as a result hiss more and louder. They will also hiss during combat.
Temperature, Humidity, and Breeding
Hissers like temperatures of about 85-95 degrees Fahrenheit with 90 being optimum. They enjoy moderate to high humidity 45% and higher. Mine seem to do best around 90 degrees. Hissers reach breeding age in about 5 to 6 months. The can have an average of 28-35 babies every two months, and are oviparous. This means that they incubate the eggs inside their body and then expel the egg case when it is time for it to hatch.
Feed
In the wild hissers feed on ripe fallen fruit and other plant material. In captivity they will eat most anything including fruit and vegetables. Mine also enjoy a dry high protein diet that I have formulated, adding to their nutritional value for my pets. I give fresh vegetables and fruits 2-3 times weekly. We are what we eat, and this goes for roaches as well. Another phrase I personally apply when feeding any of my animals is" variety is the spice of life". If you think about these 2 phrases when feeding your roaches or pets they will do well.
THE GUYANA ORANGE SPOTTED ROACH
(Blaptica dubia)
non climbing, males occasionally fly.
Dubia General Information
These are a South American cockroach. Dubias have been popular in Europe as feeders for some time now and are rapidly catching on in the U.S. They are very meaty and soft as nymphs making them an excellent feeder. The dubias cannot climb glass or plastic. They are live bearing having Since they take 3-5 months to achieve adulthood, they are a moderately fast breeer. Nymphs start out at about 1/8th to 3/16th's of an inch. The adults can achieve 2 inches in length making them one of the larger spieces. This slow moving roach sometimes plays dead when disturbed...very convient for catching and cage cleaning. The adults can live 12-24 months once achieving adulthood, but males will often die sooner than females. Males can jump/fly a couple of feet but I rarely see this in my colonies. Females have wing stubs, and cannot fly. Being slow moving, easy to sex, and moderately prolific, these are an excellent feeder roach.
Keeping and Care
A good Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin with aluminum screen hot-melt glued into holes, that you cut into the lid, is required. The males will occasionally fly, however these roaches cannot climb glass or plastic so no roach barrier is required. Use whatever size bin you deem appropriate for your needs, or even aquarium if that is all you have access to. I prefer to use bins that are 3-5 inches taller then the egg flats. Bins are lighter than glass, virtually indestructible, and cheaper then aquariums. Provide plenty of hiding spaces using egg flats and give them lots of food and water gel.
Temperature and Humidity and Breeding
85 and 90 degrees and they do quite well. They won't breed if temps drop below 78 and 95 is about as hot as they sould go. Remember to provide a tempurature gradient if you use the upper temps. Moderate humidity is all that is required to raise these excellent feeders. No misting necessary if unless residing in a dry area.
A good dog food and fresh fruits and vegis 2-3 times a week is all that is needed for food. Remember "we are what we eat". This goes for roaches as well.
Dubia are usually smaller than Discoid and Orange Headed Roaches, reaching an adult length of 1 ½ to two inches. Dubia have the softest exoskeleton of the three species. Dubia also have the great advantage of being extremely easy to sex as the adult males have full wings while the adult females have only tiny wing stubs. They are live bearers, easy keepers and very good breeders, better than Discoid Roaches. The dubia roaches are not nearly as shy and easily disturbed as either of the others. They are also slower moving.
Lobster Roach, a.k.a Cuban brown roach,
(Nauphoeta cinerea)
climber, can "flutter fall"
Lobster roaches (Nauphoeta cinerea) are a tropical roach from Caribbean. They measure 3/16� when born to 1 1/2" in length as adults. They do have wings but are unable to fly. They will sometimes jump and "flutter fall" to the ground. Lobster roaches can climb smooth surfaces such as plastic, glass, wood etc. Since they can climb, some people are unsure of how to feed them to their animals. There is a section here with feeding methods that are common. They are a nocturnal species meaning they are mainly active at night and are very shy when disturbed during the day. Although adults have wings they are unable to fly. Some adults will "flutter fall" for short distances. Adults have a life span of about 1 year.
Keeping and Care
Housing lobster roaches is very easy. Any containers such as Sterlite or Rubbermaid storage bins or glass aquariums work. Sterlite containers work best but aquariums are also usable. The larger the Rubbermaid tub the more roaches you can fit in it. Keep in mind lobsters do climb so a taller container would be best. To prevent the roaches from climbing out of the cage line the top 2-3� of the container with Vaseline, cooking oil, or olive oil. When the roaches climb they won't go past this line because it is slick and they cannot get hold of it. About every 2-5 months(whenever the Vaseline dries out or gets dirty) you will need to wipe it off and put new on. This is also a good time to clean the container and split the colony if needed. Another thing to keep in mind is not to overcrowd them. A sure sign of this would be missing antennas. Overcrowding can also slow production and cause too much competition for food and hiding areas.
Provide plenty of hiding places. This can be achieved by placing a few egg flats in the cage. This will let them hide and feel more comfortable. If not enough hiding areas aren't provided the colony can become overcrowded quickly, production will decrease and death would be more likely.
Temperature and Humidity
Like most roaches, lobsters like it hot Hot HOT, the hotter the better. Keep them around 90F or even 95F. During the summer days roaches experience high temperatures around 100-108F and this is when production is the highest. Remember when they are this hot they will eat more and need more water to be happy and healthy. If you ever see chewed or tattered wings, they aren't getting enough moisture. While molting, their exoskeleton provides almost no protection and the other water starved roaches will munch on the wings before the exoskeleton hardens. You can also mist your roaches if you live in a dry area. Ambient humidity should be 40%-50%. Humidity that is higher then 55% or over misting them will just provide an environment that is great for mold and bacteria. In most areas there is enough humidity when temperatures are at 90 degrees. You can use UTH heaters with these but be sure to give them a thermal gradient, that way if you have a hot day your roaches won't cook because the can get away from the UTH
Feed
Lobster roaches do best on a high protein, high fat diet. Many use cat food, dog food, fish food Avoid anything with unnatural color enhancers in all of the dry pet feeds, and add fruit and vegetable scraps, old bread, and even meat scraps at times. With any "fresh" food, you need to make sure that it is eaten within about 24 hours so you don't breed bacteria and mold.
Lobster Roaches, Why are they better than crickets?
Lobster roaches have a bigger stomach than crickets. What does that mean to you? The lobster roaches have more of the good food you feed them in their stomach when your pet eats them. They live longer..WAY longer than crickets. Lobster roaches will live approximately 1 year and the lifespan of a cricket is only a few weeks. Roaches have a lower exoskeleton to meat ratio than crickets which means more usable food and less poop per bug. 1 adult lobster roach is equal to 2 or even 3 adult crickets.
If you feed glass climbing roaches, you need to keep them in the enclosure.
Here are a few ways to keep them in that work.
If you are feeding monitors or other scavenger type lizards, just freeze the roaches and thaw them when you need to feed your critters. They keep for at least a few weeks without getting freezer burnt. Feed them at room temperature.
You can feed your insectivorous animals in a separate enclosure(another Rubbermaid container works well) with an olive or cooking oil barrier.
You can feed them in their own enclosure with an olive or cooking oil barrier.
Use a dish with the cooking or olive oil around the lip. MAKE SURE YOUR CRITTER CAN'T KNOCK OVER THE BOWL!!!!
Tell the roaches to chill out. If you cool them in the fridge (just till they slow down , check em' often to make sure they don't freeze to death) they will be slower and easier for your critter to catch.
TURKISTAN REDS GENERAL INFORMATION
a.k.a rusty reds, red racers, pics up soon
(Blatta lateralis)
climber, males can and will occasionally fly.
Turkistan roaches are from the semi-desert regions in the middle east. They were introduced to the United States in the late 50s possibly 60's by military personal that brought them back from the regions unknowingly. Today you can find these in Texas, California, and Arizona. These are smaller than N. cineara ( lobster roach) and very fast. They will reach about 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 inches in total length making these the perfect non-glass climbing cricket replacement. These roaches drop egg cases on the egg flats and the bottom of the cage. The nymphs are pinhead cricket sized and may reptile breeders have made the switch to the blatta lateralis nymphs in situations where pinhead crickets were once the standard. These have a lifespan of approximately one year.
Keeping and Care
A good Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin with aluminum screen hot-melt glued into holes that are cut into the lid, is required. The males will occasionally fly, however these roaches cannot climb glass or plastic so no roach barrier is required. Use whatever size bin you deem appropriate for your needs, or even aquarium if that is all you have access to. I prefer to use bins that are 3-5 inches taller then the egg flats. Bins are lighter than glass, virtually indestructible, and cheaper then aquariums. Provide plenty of hiding spaces using egg flats and give them lots of food and water gel. I can fit about 3-4 thousand adults in a 30 gallon Rubbermaid and there is still plenty of room for the babies they will produce, for some time .
Temperature and Humidity and Breeding
Like most roaches, the reds like it hot. My bins hit temperatures of 108 in the summer and I keep the blatta lateralis 95-100 normally. Humidity is very important for these roaches as they drop ootheca ( egg cases) that contain 20-30 eggs as often as every 2 weeks. The ootheca take 2-4 weeks to hatch, although I have heard of longer from some breeders. This is usually caused by low temperatures and humidity. The eggs won't hatch at all if the humidity is too low, and if it is just low only some will hatch while others dry out and die. You can use UTH heaters, but be sure to give them a thermal gradient, that way if you have a hot day your roaches won't cook because the can get away from the UTH
Feed
These normally eat organic material in the wild. In captivity, it is best to feed them a well rounded diet high in protein and fat. Many use cat food, dog food, fish food (I avoid anything with unnatural color enhancers in all of the dry pet feeds), and add fruit and vegetable scraps, old bread, and even meat scraps at times. With any "fresh" food you need to make sure that it is eaten within about 24 hours so you don't breed bacteria and mold.
MADAGASCAR HISSERS GENERAL INFORMATION
Giant Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, a.k.a. hissers,
(Gromphadorhina portentosa)
climbing, non flying
Hissers come from the huge island country off the coast of Africa called Madagascar. These are a tropical species that gets very large, with adults achieving 3 to 4 inches. There are several variations and colorations that the name Madagascar hisser encompasses. Their general care however is the same. Madagascar hissers can live 2-3 years and some can achieve ages of 5 years under absolute optimum conditions. Many people keep a few hissers as pets because they are so entertaining and docile.
Keeping and Care
These roaches can be kept as simple as the other species or as elaborate as you like. I use a Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin and position the egg crates vertically. You can use UTH heaters with these but be sure to give them a thermal gradient, that way if you have a hot day your roaches won't cook because the can get away from the UTH. I have seen people who stack them horizontally although the mouse sized poops from the adults will build up quickly. When set in the cage or bin vertically the poops fall tho the floor of the cage. I do not use substrate as it can give places for fungus, mold, bacteria, ect to grow. Desired temperatures can be achieved by UTH heating, flexwatt, a light bulb over the cage in a metal reflector ( don't melt the plastic bin if that's what you use) or having a room dedicated and heated for the roaches. Hissers can climb glass and plastic so you must use a bug barrier such as Super Slick Roach Barrier. Adult male hissers will battle for territory and females by ramming each other with their horns or shoving with their abdomens. Often times the bigger male will win and as a result hiss more and louder. They will also hiss during combat.
Temperature, Humidity, and Breeding
Hissers like temperatures of about 85-95 degrees Fahrenheit with 90 being optimum. They enjoy moderate to high humidity 45% and higher. Mine seem to do best around 90 degrees. Hissers reach breeding age in about 5 to 6 months. The can have an average of 28-35 babies every two months, and are oviparous. This means that they incubate the eggs inside their body and then expel the egg case when it is time for it to hatch.
Feed
In the wild hissers feed on ripe fallen fruit and other plant material. In captivity they will eat most anything including fruit and vegetables. Mine also enjoy a dry high protein diet that I have formulated, adding to their nutritional value for my pets. I give fresh vegetables and fruits 2-3 times weekly. We are what we eat, and this goes for roaches as well. Another phrase I personally apply when feeding any of my animals is" variety is the spice of life". If you think about these 2 phrases when feeding your roaches or pets they will do well.
THE GUYANA ORANGE SPOTTED ROACH
(Blaptica dubia)
non climbing, males occasionally fly.
Dubia General Information
These are a South American cockroach. Dubias have been popular in Europe as feeders for some time now and are rapidly catching on in the U.S. They are very meaty and soft as nymphs making them an excellent feeder. The dubias cannot climb glass or plastic. They are live bearing having Since they take 3-5 months to achieve adulthood, they are a moderately fast breeer. Nymphs start out at about 1/8th to 3/16th's of an inch. The adults can achieve 2 inches in length making them one of the larger spieces. This slow moving roach sometimes plays dead when disturbed...very convient for catching and cage cleaning. The adults can live 12-24 months once achieving adulthood, but males will often die sooner than females. Males can jump/fly a couple of feet but I rarely see this in my colonies. Females have wing stubs, and cannot fly. Being slow moving, easy to sex, and moderately prolific, these are an excellent feeder roach.
Keeping and Care
A good Rubbermaid or Sterlite bin with aluminum screen hot-melt glued into holes, that you cut into the lid, is required. The males will occasionally fly, however these roaches cannot climb glass or plastic so no roach barrier is required. Use whatever size bin you deem appropriate for your needs, or even aquarium if that is all you have access to. I prefer to use bins that are 3-5 inches taller then the egg flats. Bins are lighter than glass, virtually indestructible, and cheaper then aquariums. Provide plenty of hiding spaces using egg flats and give them lots of food and water gel.
Temperature and Humidity and Breeding
85 and 90 degrees and they do quite well. They won't breed if temps drop below 78 and 95 is about as hot as they sould go. Remember to provide a tempurature gradient if you use the upper temps. Moderate humidity is all that is required to raise these excellent feeders. No misting necessary if unless residing in a dry area.
A good dog food and fresh fruits and vegis 2-3 times a week is all that is needed for food. Remember "we are what we eat". This goes for roaches as well.
Dubia are usually smaller than Discoid and Orange Headed Roaches, reaching an adult length of 1 ½ to two inches. Dubia have the softest exoskeleton of the three species. Dubia also have the great advantage of being extremely easy to sex as the adult males have full wings while the adult females have only tiny wing stubs. They are live bearers, easy keepers and very good breeders, better than Discoid Roaches. The dubia roaches are not nearly as shy and easily disturbed as either of the others. They are also slower moving.
OTHER ROACH FACTS
Adults can live up to 18 months.
Mature by 3 to 4 months.
Give live Birth about 30 at a time.
Have no odor.
They do not bite.
Adults can live up to 18 months.
Mature by 3 to 4 months.
Give live Birth about 30 at a time.
Have no odor.
They do not bite.
