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GUIDELINES FOR REPTILE CAGING
PRINCIPLES
Providing environments suitable for reptiles can be difficult. Reptiles are wild animals, and the husbandry methods applied to them must take this into account. Housing, food, and care must match the physical and behavioural needs of each species. Carefully designed physical and biological environments are often needed for healthy reptiles intended for breeding purposes. The welfare of the animals must have the highest priority in the design of reptile rooms, cages, and cage furnishings otherwise they could stop feeding and slowly waste away.
The diversity exhibited by reptiles presents problems for husbandry that are not encountered with domestic and captive bred birds and mammals. Husbandry conditions must match the needs of the species being kept.
Three factors are essential to achieve that goal:
1. Knowledge of the natural history of each species, obtained from field observations
or from the literature;
2. Duplication of the features of the animals' natural microhabitats that are crucial for
normal behaviour and reproduction; and
3. Awareness and sensitivity on the part of reptile keepers to the unique requirements of
these animals and the ways in which they manifest ill health.
GENERAL KEEPING PRINCIPLES
The following generalizations apply to the care of most reptiles, but caution must be employed in their use. The taxonomic categories included are broad, and substantial variation exists within them. Some lizards, for example, are heliothermic and regulate their body temperatures between 38 and 42 degrees C, whereas others live beneath the canopies of tropical forests with body temperatures that fluctuate between 25 and 30 degrees C. Still others are nocturnal and are active at body temperatures below 20 degrees C. While these guidelines emphasize the factors that are likely to be important for husbandry and point to general categories of problems and solutions, information about the ecology and physiology of the species being kept is indispensable.
INDOOR HOUSING
Most wooden, plastic or concrete structures can be used for indoor caging. Complete glass aquaria are mostly not suitable for reptiles as they can stress when “open” from all sides. Large sheets of glass should be thicker than 4 mm in thickness and shatterproof windows are recommended for wall sized cage fronts. Any paint must be non-toxic and fumes must have dissipated before the cage is used. Heating can also react with the paint and this must be tested before introducing the reptile. Cages with large constrictors and venomous reptiles must be lockable to avoid tampering. Being able to retreat gives most reptiles a sense of comfort and they settle down sooner in these cages. Cages must provide appropriate temperature, moisture, and light regimes. In general, these may even include visible and ultraviolet light controlled on a daily and seasonal cycle, water for drinking or bathing, and humidity control. The key to successful care of reptiles lies in providing a gradient of conditions within the cage allowing the animals a combinations of environmental factors needed.
CROCODILES AND LIZARD PITS
Outdoor displays should have smooth sides or at least a 50cm strip of smooth material around the walls. An overhang to prevent small reptiles climbing over can also be used. This can be achieved by fixing a strip of metal or similar material to the edge of the wall. Raise this from the bottom side so that animals crawling up the wall go under the overhang. Raising the centre of the display will limit the necessity for visitors to hang over the walls.
TEMPERATURE
Photothermal gradients employing spotlights that produce both heat and light are probably the best choice for long term care. These gradients must provide cool retreat sites as well as warm basking spots for the animals. The cage must be large enough so that one end always remains cool. Shelters should be placed along the length of the gradient so that animals are not forced to choose between thermoregulation and security. Substrate temperature gradients produced by heating pads beneath the cage floor may be more effective than photothermal gradients, especially for nocturnal or secretive reptiles. 12 volt spotlight type lamps are ideal for small cages and the wattage can be changed depending on the temperature required.
WATER
A shallow water dish is appropriate for most reptiles. However, some tropical species require daily spraying, and some desert reptiles never drink from a dish and also require spraying with luke warm water to initiate drinking. Water dishes should be low enough that the reptile can drink easily without having to search for water very high above the substrate. Some species like to soak in the water and provision must be made for these species that they have a large dish in which they can submerge themselves.
LIGHT
Quality and quantity of light are both very important to certain reptiles. An annual cycle of day length is usually critical for breeding. Providing the proper amount and quality of ultraviolet light is probably the most difficult aspect of lighting. Some species of reptiles (especially tropical and sub tropical lizards) do require ultraviolet light for calcium metabolism, normal behaviour, and reproduction. Special UV lights designed for reptiles can be purchased or unfiltered sunlight employed to give the reptile its UV requirement. Because glass does not transmit middle wavelength ultraviolet light and greatly increases longer wavelengths, it should not be used for cage tops if the lighting is outside the cage. Wire mesh and some plastics will allow the transmission of short wavelength ultraviolet light and are suitable for these cage tops.
THE PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT
Most reptiles are secretive. They live in close association with their microenvironments, and this can be an important aspect of their behaviour. Animals of this sort do not thrive in barren steel cages or in plastic boxes filled with wood shavings; their husbandry requires housing that combines the animals' need for environmental cues with effective care and sanitation. Providing some sort of hiding place or retreat is of paramount importance for nearly all species.
CAGE FURNISHINGS
Cage dressings and furnishings (e.g., branches, rocks, and substrate) should complement the normal lifestyle of the animal. A varied cage environment may be necessary for normal behaviour, for example, the thermoregulatory and foraging behaviours of lizards. Reptiles often ingest bedding material with food, and cage substrates should be chosen with this possibility in mind, and several substrates commonly used for bird and mammal cages are harmful to reptiles. Appropriate substrates keep the animal dry, such as newspaper, indoor/outdoor carpet, sand (only for species that normally live in sand), bark chips, and peat and sphagnum moss. Materials that swell when they are swallowed, such as ground corn cob, cat litter, and vermiculite should not be used. Many animals press or rub their snouts against the walls of their cage as they explore, and rough or sharp surfaces may injure them. Loose cage decorations like rocks and logs must not be too heavy that if they fall over they crush the reptile. These must be held in position securely with wire, glue or screws.
FOOD AND FEEDING
The type of food and the rate of feeding should, at a minimum, ensure normal growth or maintenance of weight. The food requirements of reptiles vary widely; some species require nearly daily feeding, whereas others do best on three, two, or even one feeding per week. Reptiles have specific prey which they are used to eating and cannot easily be converted to whatever food the keeper can afford or obtain. The foods that can be provided to reptiles in captivity rarely resemble their natural diets, and the nutritional requirements of reptiles are poorly understood. Providing balanced nutrition for reptiles is challenging. Food items can be dusted with a vitamin and mineral mixture just before they are offered to the animals. Many reptiles respond to movement and will ignore even their favourite prey if it is motionless. Live food is required for these animals, and husbandry of reptiles often requires maintaining colonies of insects or rodents as well. Insectivorous diets that alternate different kinds of live food are critical and a variety of insects should be offered regularly. The insects must be healthy and well fed if they are to be nutritious food. Mice, rats, rabbits or day old chicks should be euthanized by an approved method that does not leave a toxic chemical residue before they are fed to captive reptiles. Asphyxiation with carbon dioxide (even a fire extinguisher) is an acceptable method of killing animals for this purpose. Feeding live vertebrates while people are around is not condoned, as the possible public outcry compared to the education or thrill value does not justify the action. In any case live vertebrate food is hardly ever required, as most reptiles will take freshly killed prey.
CLEANING
Housing conditions should inhibit the presence and spread of disease. However, sanitation procedures should not frequently disturb the animals nor require complete removal and disinfection of faeces because many reptiles (especially lizards) use pheromones, including constituents of faeces, for intraspecific communication. Snakes kept in clean cages spend more time attempting to escape than do individuals in cages where a TINY amount of faecal matter is left each time the cage is cleaned. The human nose is the most appropriate guide to cleanliness; No smell of waste products should be perceptible in the air of a room housing reptiles even though some snakes, especially mambas, will give off a distinctive curry smell. Shedded skins are often of educational value but only a few are required for this purpose. Pieces of skin should be removed promptly except where the animal will ingest it, as some of the geckos are inclined to do.
CAGE SIZES
These guidelines are suitable for a pair of animals. For every additional adult specimen a third of the size must be added.
The unit of measurement is always the total body length of an animal.
The size is only the recommended size. It can be 30 to 50 percent smaller as a holding or quarantine cage, especially if only a single specimen is housed.
Humidity is grouped as: low = 20-40 percent, medium = 40-70 percent and high = 70 percent plus.
ARBOREAL, DIURNAL SANKES: BOOMSLANG, TWIGSNAKES, BUSHSNAKES, MAMBAS, ETC
Biotope: Arboreal.
Cage L x B x H: 1 x 0.5 x 1
Air temperature: 28 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 33-35 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 26 degrees and NTL 15 degrees
Humidity: Medium to High. Sub-tropical
Fluids: Shallow elevated water bowl
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes if possible
Cage layout: Branches and elevated hide box.
Diet: Mammals, birds, lizards and frogs
TERRESTRIAL NOCTURNAL/ CREPUSCULAR SNAKES: HOUSE SNAKES, FILE SNAKES, COBRAS ETC
Biotope: Terrestrial.
Cage L x B x H: 1 x 0.5 x 0.5
Air temperature: 24 – 28 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: Nocturnal animals. Subterranean heat source as hotspot.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 18 degrees and NTL 10 degrees
Humidity: Medium to high
Fluids: Shallow to deep large water bowl
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: No
Cage layout: Hide box, sturdy branches can be added.
Diet: Mammals, birds, lizards, snakes and amphibians
Note: Naja and Mehelya potentially cannibalistic
Terrestrial / Semi-Arboreal Diurnal snakes: Sandsnakes, Skaapstekers, Beaked snakes, etc.
Biotope: Terrestrial and semi-arboreal.
Cage L x B x H: 1.5 x 1.0 x 1.0
Air temperature: 28 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20–22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 30 to 35 degrees.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 22 degrees and NTL 15 degrees
Humidity: Medium.
Fluids: Shallow water bowl
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes if possible
Cage layout: Hide box and sturdy branches to climb.
Diet: Mammals, lizards, and frogs
TERRESTRIAL, NOCTURNAL, SEMI-AQUATIC SNAKES: NIGHT ADDERS, HERALDS, BROWN WATERSNAKES
Biotope: Terrestrial.
Cage L x B x H: 1 x 0.5 x 0.5
Air temperature: 24 – 28 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: Nocturnal animals. Subterranean heat source as hotspot.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 15 degrees and NTL 10 degrees
Humidity: High.
Fluids: Large shallow water bowl one quarter of cage.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: No
Cage layout: Hide box.
Diet: Feed almost exclusively on amphibians.
SEMI-ARBOREAL, NOCTURNAL/CREPUSCULAR SNAKES: EGGEATERS, TIGER SNAKES
Biotope: Semi Arboreal.
Cage L x B x H: 1.0 x 0.5 x 1.0
Air temperature: 24 – 28 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: Nocturnal animals. Subterranean heat source as hotspot.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 18 degrees and NTL 10 degrees
Humidity: Medium.
Fluids: Shallow water bowl
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: No
Cage layout: Hide box, and sturdy branches to climb.
Diet : Specialist feeders, ie bird eggs and lizards or small mammals.
BURROWING/TERRESTRIAL SNAKES: CORAL AND SHEILDNOSE SNAKES, SMALL ADDERS, MOLESNAKES, GARTER SNAKES, ETC
Biotope: Terrestrial
Cage L x B x H: 2 x 1 x 1 unit
Air temperature: 24 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 30-35 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 3 months DTH 20 degrees and NTL 8 degrees
Humidity: Low.
Fluids: Very shallow water bowl and sprayed 3 times a week with luke warm water.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes if possible
Cage layout: Fine sand or loose soil to submerge into and low hide box.
Diet: Mammals, lizards, snakes and amphibians
Note: Potentially cannibalistic.
PYTHONS, NATIVE ROCK PYTHON
Biotope: Terrestrial, semi arboreal and semi aquatic.
Cage: (snake up to 2.5 meters) 1 x 0.5 x 0.75 (snake over 2.5 meters) 0.75 x 0.5 x 0.5
Air temperature: 26 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20 –24 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 32-35 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2 months DTH 26 degrees and NTL 20 degrees.
Humidity: Medium to High
Fluids: Deep water bowl large enough for snake to submerge completely.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: If possible, but not critical
Cage layout: Branch or shelf wider than the snake and deep hide box.
Diet: Mammals and birds
CHAMELEONS
Biotope: Arboreal.
Cage L x B x H: 5 x 4 x 8
Air temperature: 26 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20 –24 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 30-35 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2 months DTH 26 degrees and NTL 18 degrees.
Humidity: Medium to High
Fluids: Spray with warm water twice a day! No waterbowl.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Critical
Cage layout: Different size strong branches and live plants where possible.
Note: Chameleo to be kept as single specimens out of sight of other chameleons. Bradypodion can be kept in groups.
NILE CROCODILES
Biotope: Semi aquatic.
Cage L x B x H: Land: 1 x 2, Water 2 x 1 x 0.3 deep
Air temperature: 26 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20 –24 Night Time Low
Water temperature: 20 -24 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 15 - 18 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 32-38 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2 months DTH 26 degrees and NTL 15 degrees.
Humidity: Medium to High
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes
Cage layout: Must have shaded area to retreat to. Sandy area to lay eggs.
Note: Mature animals can be kept in a ratio of 1 male to many females.
TORTOISES
Biotope: Terrestrial.
Cage: 10 times the carapace length squared. No sharp corners to the cage.
Air temperature: 26 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20 –24 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 35-40 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2 months DTH 22-26 degrees and NTL 10 degrees.
Humidity: Medium
Fluids: Large water dish. Half as deep as the height of tortoise with 25-degree non-slip slope.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes.
Cage layout: Soil substrate with burrow for winter.
Food, Mainly vegetable matter but will gnaw on bones and small invertebrates.
Note: Mature animals can be kept 1 male to many females.
TERRAPINS
Biotope: Aquatic.
Cage L x B x H: Land: 3 times the carapace length squared , Water 5 x 5 x 2 deep
Air temperature: 26 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20 –24 Night Time Low
Water temperature: 20 -24 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 15 - 18 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 32-35 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2 months DTH 26 degrees and NTL 18 degrees.
Humidity: Medium to High
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes
Cage layout: Must have shaded area to retreat to. Sandy area to lay eggs.
Note: Mainly carnivorous, but will take vegetable matter.
MONITORS
Biotope: Terrestrial.
Cage L x B x H: 4 x 2 x 2.
Air temperature: 28 – 30 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20 –24 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 30-35 degrees centigrade.
Hibernate: 2 months DTH 22-26 degrees and NTL 15 degrees.
Humidity: Low to Medium
Fluids: Water dish deep enough to submerge in.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes.
Cage layout: Thick branches or shelf totalling one-third the floor area. Deep hide box.
Diet: Mammals, birds, eggs, lizards, snakes, amphibians, invertebrates and carrion.
Note: Mature animals can be kept 1 male to many females.
TERRESTRIAL AND SEMI-ARBOREAL DIURNAL LIZARDS: PLATED LIZARDS, AGAMAS, GIRDLED LIZARDS ETC.
Biotope: Terrestrial and semi-arboreal.
Cage L x B x H: 5 x 3 x 3
Air temperature: 25 – 28 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 20–22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: 30 to 35 degrees.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 28 degrees and NTL 15 degrees
Humidity: Medium.
Fluids: Shallow water bowl
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: Yes critical
Cage layout: Hide box and sturdy branches to climb. Basking rocks are also utilized.
Diet: Insects invertebrates and some vegetable matter.
Males will create territories so only one male per cage.
TERRESTRIAL, NOCTURNAL GECKOS: GROUND GECKOS, BARKING GECKOS, WEB FOOTED GECKOS ETC.
Biotope: Terrestrial.
Cage L x B x H: 4 x 3 x 2
Air temperature: 24 – 28 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: Nocturnal animals. Subterranean heat source as hotspot.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 25 degrees and NTL 15 degrees
Humidity: Low to medium.
Fluids: Small shallow water bowl. Must be misted 3 times a week.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: No
Cage layout: Sandy substrate and hide box.
Diet: Insects, invertebrates and some small vertebrates.
Males will create territories so only one male per cage.
ARBOREAL, NOCTURNAL, LIZARDS AND GECKOS: HOUSE GECKOS, THICK TOED, VELVET GECKOS ETC.
Biotope: Terrestrial.
Cage L x B x H: 4 x 3 x 4
Air temperature: 24 – 28 degrees centigrade Day Time High and 18 –22 Night Time Low
Hotspot: Nocturnal animals. Subterranean heat source as hotspot.
Hibernate: 2-3 months DTH 25 degrees and NTL 15 degrees
Humidity: Medium.
Fluids: Small shallow water bowl. Must be misted 3 times a week.
UV light/unfiltered sunlight: No
Cage layout: Soil substrate and hide box.
Diet: Insects, invertebrates and some small vertebrates.
Males will create territories so only one male per cage.
- Compiled by Arno Naude