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Solomon Island Ground Boa
(Candoia carinata paulsoni)
Caresheet
Solomon Island Ground Boa (Candoia carinata paulsoni) Caresheet
CANDOIA C PAULSONI CARE
Written by Zoe Stevens
http://www.candoia.ca
CANDOIA C PAULSONI CARE
Written by Zoe Stevens
http://www.candoia.ca
PURCHASING CANDOIA
Buying Candoia c paulsoni can be extremely enjoyable, or frought with problems and worry - mainly because many, if not most, of the available Candoia are wild caught. They are not particularly difficult to breed, but the demand for them is modest and not many breeders are procuding CBB Candoia in North America. As such, most specimens that you may come across for sale are wild caught, and care must be taken to ensure that they are acclimated, healthy, and eating.
In the wild, Candoia c paulsoni eat mainly small lizards, and therefore may not be used to eating frozen/thawed or even live rodents. If you are purchasing a WC Candoia c paulsoni, or Candoia c paulsoni of questionnable origin, ensure that you have visual proof that it is eating rodents, or that you are prepared to feed live prey, lizard scented prey (I know of keepers who keep a dead anole in their freezer for scenting purposes), or even frogs or amphibians, until the snake is willing to accept f/t or f/k rodents.
However, all but one of my Candoia c paulsoni eat f/t rodents and always have, and the other only eats live (note: this snake has since switched to f/t) - so not all Candoia c paulsoni have feeding problems. Just make sure you're prepared for it. Also know that they can go for many months without eating - so as long as they are not losing too much weight, do not resort to force-feeding.
WC snakes may also have parasites - external and internal. External parasites can be snake mites or ticks. Ticks will be large and obvious, and can easily be removed. Just make sure that you also remove the mandibals which are burried under the scales, or infection can occur. Mites are more common but less easy to spot; rub the snake with a moist paper towel. If you see small black spots on the paper towel (rather like pepper), these are likely mites. They may also move, and if you squish them, a small smear of blood will show up on the paper towel. Mites are also easy to treat using the Ivory Soap method.
Internal parasites are not usually easy to spot in fecal matter, so if your snake is passing feces, you should have a qualified reptile vet do a fecal exam ($20-$30) to check for internal parasites, and treat if required. If your snake is not passing feces, you should still treat for internal parasites as wildcaught specimens are often afflicted.
As always, it is best to buy captive bred snakes - but given the rarity of these snakes in captivity, it may not be possible to start your collection with CB animals.
Buying Candoia c paulsoni can be extremely enjoyable, or frought with problems and worry - mainly because many, if not most, of the available Candoia are wild caught. They are not particularly difficult to breed, but the demand for them is modest and not many breeders are procuding CBB Candoia in North America. As such, most specimens that you may come across for sale are wild caught, and care must be taken to ensure that they are acclimated, healthy, and eating.
In the wild, Candoia c paulsoni eat mainly small lizards, and therefore may not be used to eating frozen/thawed or even live rodents. If you are purchasing a WC Candoia c paulsoni, or Candoia c paulsoni of questionnable origin, ensure that you have visual proof that it is eating rodents, or that you are prepared to feed live prey, lizard scented prey (I know of keepers who keep a dead anole in their freezer for scenting purposes), or even frogs or amphibians, until the snake is willing to accept f/t or f/k rodents.
However, all but one of my Candoia c paulsoni eat f/t rodents and always have, and the other only eats live (note: this snake has since switched to f/t) - so not all Candoia c paulsoni have feeding problems. Just make sure you're prepared for it. Also know that they can go for many months without eating - so as long as they are not losing too much weight, do not resort to force-feeding.
WC snakes may also have parasites - external and internal. External parasites can be snake mites or ticks. Ticks will be large and obvious, and can easily be removed. Just make sure that you also remove the mandibals which are burried under the scales, or infection can occur. Mites are more common but less easy to spot; rub the snake with a moist paper towel. If you see small black spots on the paper towel (rather like pepper), these are likely mites. They may also move, and if you squish them, a small smear of blood will show up on the paper towel. Mites are also easy to treat using the Ivory Soap method.
Internal parasites are not usually easy to spot in fecal matter, so if your snake is passing feces, you should have a qualified reptile vet do a fecal exam ($20-$30) to check for internal parasites, and treat if required. If your snake is not passing feces, you should still treat for internal parasites as wildcaught specimens are often afflicted.
As always, it is best to buy captive bred snakes - but given the rarity of these snakes in captivity, it may not be possible to start your collection with CB animals.
CHOOSING A COLOUR PATTERN
Candoia c paulsoni are extremely variable when it comes to colour and pattern. The dorsal pattern can range to an almost unbroken straight line down the back, to a chain of splotches or zigzags down the back. Some specimens may have little to no contrast between the lighter body colour and darker dorsal colour, while others may be almost white in body and almost black in the dorsal stripe. Others yet may be red, pink, brown, calico or grey. I'm a big advocate for picking a snake that you like, instead of a snake that you're supposed to like because it's worth more, but generally, the high contrast and/or red specimens are most highly sought after. Candoia c paulsoni have not been captively bred very much, and seem to be a very variable species - rather like the polymorphic Amazon Tree Boa. Endless possibilities!
SIZE AND HOUSING
Solomon Island Ground Boas seem to run the gammet from very small to quite large - all of my animals are relatively small - males reaching 2-3 feet and staying relatively slender; females being chunkier and around 3-4 feet. However, some females can reach 4-5 feet and be quite heavy.
For most male Solomon Island Ground Boas, however, a 15 to 20 gallon tank is sufficient - or a rubbermaid that is approximately 24 inches by 12 inches. Females, being quite a bit larger, will require a larger tank - a 30 inch by 18 inch footprint is adequate. The largest females may require a four foot enclosure, but three feet is enough for most.
Solomon Island Ground Boas don't seem bent on escaping, but as always, a secure lid / door is recommended.
My Solomon Island Ground Boas do not seem to soak very often, but many people say theirs do, so provide a large water dish filled with fresh water. Candoia are not particularly messy, but weekly sterilization of water bowls with a 1:20 bleach:water solution is always advisable - followed by thorough rinsing.
I like to do naturalistic setups for my snakes, with coconut mulch as substrate, live plants, and pieces of wood, but a simple set-up is fine, too (and is advisable for new arrivals to better monitor their feces during quarantine), consisting of paper towel or newspaper substrate, a water dish, and a hide box.
Candoia c paulsoni are extremely variable when it comes to colour and pattern. The dorsal pattern can range to an almost unbroken straight line down the back, to a chain of splotches or zigzags down the back. Some specimens may have little to no contrast between the lighter body colour and darker dorsal colour, while others may be almost white in body and almost black in the dorsal stripe. Others yet may be red, pink, brown, calico or grey. I'm a big advocate for picking a snake that you like, instead of a snake that you're supposed to like because it's worth more, but generally, the high contrast and/or red specimens are most highly sought after. Candoia c paulsoni have not been captively bred very much, and seem to be a very variable species - rather like the polymorphic Amazon Tree Boa. Endless possibilities!
SIZE AND HOUSING
Solomon Island Ground Boas seem to run the gammet from very small to quite large - all of my animals are relatively small - males reaching 2-3 feet and staying relatively slender; females being chunkier and around 3-4 feet. However, some females can reach 4-5 feet and be quite heavy.
For most male Solomon Island Ground Boas, however, a 15 to 20 gallon tank is sufficient - or a rubbermaid that is approximately 24 inches by 12 inches. Females, being quite a bit larger, will require a larger tank - a 30 inch by 18 inch footprint is adequate. The largest females may require a four foot enclosure, but three feet is enough for most.
Solomon Island Ground Boas don't seem bent on escaping, but as always, a secure lid / door is recommended.
My Solomon Island Ground Boas do not seem to soak very often, but many people say theirs do, so provide a large water dish filled with fresh water. Candoia are not particularly messy, but weekly sterilization of water bowls with a 1:20 bleach:water solution is always advisable - followed by thorough rinsing.
I like to do naturalistic setups for my snakes, with coconut mulch as substrate, live plants, and pieces of wood, but a simple set-up is fine, too (and is advisable for new arrivals to better monitor their feces during quarantine), consisting of paper towel or newspaper substrate, a water dish, and a hide box.
NATURALISTIC SETUPS - OBSERVATIONS
While there is something to be said for the easy cleaning of a basic set up (rubbermaid, paper towel, water dish and hide box), I'm a big fan of naturalistic setups. One of my observations in keeping SIGB is that the recommended "50-70%" humidity is inadequate. I use plants, driftwood and substrate to achieve something closer to 70-90% humidity most of the time (with a dry-out period every few days). I have noticed that with this increased humidity, my snakes rarely, if ever, soak. I have also noted that whenever I use sphagnum moss for humidity, I invariably find a snake burried in it. In my experience, they opt for "cover" (moss, logs with holes, corkbark tubes) rather than regular hideboxes or "caves".
HEATING, LIGHTING AND HUMIDITY
Light is not particularly important for Solomon Island Ground Boas. I light my cages for the live plants contained therein. I tend to just adjust the light cycle every few weeks to correspond with outdoor lighting conditions to simulate natural light cycles - but any photoperiod (or no artificial light) is also fine.
I encourage any Candoia keepers to research the Solomon Islands - you will learn a lot more about how your snakes should be kept. Did you know that the Islands have a near-constant temperature and humidity all year long? Did you know that the Solomon Islands are very humid, most days hovering around 74-94%?
As Solomon Island Ground Boas are from a fairly temperate region, they do not require excessive heat. An appropriately sized heat pad on one side of the enclosure is fine, for a hot spot of about 88-90F, a warm side of 82-86F, and a cool side of 79-84F. Nighttime lows of 73-75F ambient are fine.
Solomon Island Ground Boas seem to manage just fine without 94% humidity, but I do recommend daily sprayings or the use of a humidifier, particularly for dry areas. Ambient humidity can be around 60%, with daily mistings bringing it up to 80-90% a couple times a day. If you notice your Candoia soaking or having trouble shedding, humidity can be increased by the use of a humidifier in the room, or by placing a water dish over a headpad, and increasing misting frequency.
FEEDING
As previously mentioned, Solomon Island Ground Boas can be easy or difficult feeders. In my experience, however, once a Candoia is eating steadily, it will continue to do so, and long fasts of mysterious origin are uncommon - and when they do occur, they are nothing to worry about.
Solomon Island Ground Boas have a very slow metabolism, and do not require frequent meals unless they will be breeding. For adult males and adult females not breeding, one reasonably sized prey item can be fed every 14 to 20 days.
Breeding females can be fed every 7 to 10 days.
An appropriately sized prey item should cause a visible lump in the snake's tummy right after eating it. The lump should go away within a few days.
Neonates usually require scenting or pump-assisted feeding at first, but a meal every 7 to 14 days is normal. Juvenile/yearlings can be fed every 10 to 14 days.
Some animals may strike readily at prey offered in tongs; others may need to be left with the f/t prey item in their cage overnight.
If you are feeding live rodents, keep an eye on it without being intrusive, as rats and mice can bite your snake.
HANDLING AND TEMPERMENT
Solomon Island Ground Boas are typically quite tame and placid. Nippiness is to be expected in young specimens, as well as wild caught specimens that have had little to no handling. But regular, gentle handling should make most animals very tame. My Solomon Island Ground Boas are a pleasure to handle - they are inquisitive but gentle, and usually just stay wrapped around my wrist or arm.
As previously mentioned, Solomon Island Ground Boas can be easy or difficult feeders. In my experience, however, once a Candoia is eating steadily, it will continue to do so, and long fasts of mysterious origin are uncommon - and when they do occur, they are nothing to worry about.
Solomon Island Ground Boas have a very slow metabolism, and do not require frequent meals unless they will be breeding. For adult males and adult females not breeding, one reasonably sized prey item can be fed every 14 to 20 days.
Breeding females can be fed every 7 to 10 days.
An appropriately sized prey item should cause a visible lump in the snake's tummy right after eating it. The lump should go away within a few days.
Neonates usually require scenting or pump-assisted feeding at first, but a meal every 7 to 14 days is normal. Juvenile/yearlings can be fed every 10 to 14 days.
Some animals may strike readily at prey offered in tongs; others may need to be left with the f/t prey item in their cage overnight.
If you are feeding live rodents, keep an eye on it without being intrusive, as rats and mice can bite your snake.
HANDLING AND TEMPERMENT
Solomon Island Ground Boas are typically quite tame and placid. Nippiness is to be expected in young specimens, as well as wild caught specimens that have had little to no handling. But regular, gentle handling should make most animals very tame. My Solomon Island Ground Boas are a pleasure to handle - they are inquisitive but gentle, and usually just stay wrapped around my wrist or arm.
