GARGOYLE GECKO CARE AND BREEDING
(Rhacodactylus auriculatus)
STEVE RAFFAELE
www.westerngecko.ca
BACKGROUND
Gargoyle geckos are one of several arboreal species of Diplodactylinae (double fingered geckos). The Gargoyle Gecko, so named for its knobby head's resemblance to medieval stone gargoyles, is a native of New Caledonia, a French territory north east of Australia. Their scientific name, auriculatus, refers to the small bony structure present over their aural (hearing) opening. There are two basic “morphs” or color patterns that Gargoyle Geckos come in: striped and blotched. This gecko species is known to be the most easily handled of the Rhacodactylus species, and can make an excellent pet for both beginning and advanced reptile keepers. Overall they are hardy, humorous little geckos that require very little maintenance.
AVERAGE SIZE Variable, up to 8 inches and 60 grams.
LIFE SPAN Well over 15 years if properly cared for.
HABITAT AND ENCLOSURE SET UP
Gargoyle gockos are known to be very nippy with cage mates so they should be housed singly unless the two geckos are female and prove to be compatible from an early age. Some keepers have had success when housing small groups of similar sized 1.1 or 1.2 Gargoyles.
Gargoyle Geckos can be housed in either screen or glass/plexiglas enclosures. In drier areas it’s recommended that glass/plexiglas cages be used to provide adequate humidity. In areas with higher humidity screen cages are excellent for providing adequate ventilation. Cages should be permitted to dry out entirely during the day following a heavy night time misting. Housing should be chosen to permit this to occur, otherwise problems with moulding from too high of humidity can occur, or the animals can have retained shed due to low humidity. An 18x18x24 Exo-Terra tank or a 30-gallon tall glass tank would be perfect for an adult Gargoyle gecko. Gargoyles, unlike Crested geckos prefer to inhabit the lower regions of an enclosure so a taller enclosure is not needed for these geckos.
Extra heating and lighting is not necessary for Gargoyle geckos, as they thrive at temperatures between 72F - 78F degrees. Temperatures can fluctuate from 65F – 82F degrees at night and during the day respectively, but these are extremes. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 85F can kill Gargoyle geckos. In the winter months, or if your home does not maintain adequate warmth, a small heat lamp can be used. Ensure the heat lamp is on one side so your gecko can “choose” to be near it or not. A 40-watt bulb should be sufficient.
UV lighting is not necessary for the nocturnal Gargoyle gecko to synthesize vitamin D3 as it is with diurnal lizard species. It does
not hurt, however, and can be sued for display purposes (so you can see your new friend) or allow plants in the enclosure to thrive.
Gargoyle geckos can be kept on paper towel, leaf litter, moss and dirt-like substrates. Hatchlings should be kept on paper towel to
prevent them from ingesting substragte and choking.
FOOD AND WATER
The gecko's enclosure should be misted well once or twice daily, and it is fine to let it dry out between mistings. This will ensure proper humidity to allow for proper shedding, but not keep the enclosure too wet. The geckos will drink from the droplets of water that collect on the glass and tank furnishings.
Some keepers place a dish of water in the tank for their geckos to drink from and find success with this method, but many Gargoyle geckos will not drink from standing water. If you choose this method, keep in mind that misting is still necessary for proper humidity in the enclosure, and that the water dish should be shallow to prevent drowning accidents with smaller geckos.
Gargoyle geckos are frugivores, meaning they eat fruit and sometimes insects.
Many keepers feed their geckos a pre-made powdered diet called Repashy MRP (meal replacement powder), which can be ordered online or found at some pet stores. It's a complete diet, which means that as long as it's mixed according to the directions with water only, nothing else, not even crickets need to be fed to the gecko. You can still feed crickets if you wish, but they are not necessary. Any crickets fed should be dusted with a calcium/vitamin supplement.
Baby food was once considered a staple food for Gargoyle geckos, but now we are seeing the long-term effects of feeding only baby food. Even when supplemented with calcium and vitamins baby food provides very poor nutrition for adequate bone density. Baby food should not be fed due to its high sugar content. Nor should it be mixed with Repashy MRP, as it alters the balanced nutrition value of the MRP. Some may argue that baby food is safe for human babies, so why not geckos? Human babies are rarely ever fed a strict diet of only fruit baby food. They are fed a balanced diet including meat-based baby foods and other products to ensure full nutrition.
Gargoyle geckos can be fed 3 -4 times a week, and some examples of good feeding regimens include:
1. Repashy MRP 3-4 times a week.
2. Repashy MRP twice a week, crickets twice a week.
3. Repashy MRP twice a week , crickets once per week, smoothie once per week.
Gargoyle geckos are one of several arboreal species of Diplodactylinae (double fingered geckos). The Gargoyle Gecko, so named for its knobby head's resemblance to medieval stone gargoyles, is a native of New Caledonia, a French territory north east of Australia. Their scientific name, auriculatus, refers to the small bony structure present over their aural (hearing) opening. There are two basic “morphs” or color patterns that Gargoyle Geckos come in: striped and blotched. This gecko species is known to be the most easily handled of the Rhacodactylus species, and can make an excellent pet for both beginning and advanced reptile keepers. Overall they are hardy, humorous little geckos that require very little maintenance.
AVERAGE SIZE Variable, up to 8 inches and 60 grams.
LIFE SPAN Well over 15 years if properly cared for.
HABITAT AND ENCLOSURE SET UP
Gargoyle gockos are known to be very nippy with cage mates so they should be housed singly unless the two geckos are female and prove to be compatible from an early age. Some keepers have had success when housing small groups of similar sized 1.1 or 1.2 Gargoyles.
Gargoyle Geckos can be housed in either screen or glass/plexiglas enclosures. In drier areas it’s recommended that glass/plexiglas cages be used to provide adequate humidity. In areas with higher humidity screen cages are excellent for providing adequate ventilation. Cages should be permitted to dry out entirely during the day following a heavy night time misting. Housing should be chosen to permit this to occur, otherwise problems with moulding from too high of humidity can occur, or the animals can have retained shed due to low humidity. An 18x18x24 Exo-Terra tank or a 30-gallon tall glass tank would be perfect for an adult Gargoyle gecko. Gargoyles, unlike Crested geckos prefer to inhabit the lower regions of an enclosure so a taller enclosure is not needed for these geckos.
Extra heating and lighting is not necessary for Gargoyle geckos, as they thrive at temperatures between 72F - 78F degrees. Temperatures can fluctuate from 65F – 82F degrees at night and during the day respectively, but these are extremes. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 85F can kill Gargoyle geckos. In the winter months, or if your home does not maintain adequate warmth, a small heat lamp can be used. Ensure the heat lamp is on one side so your gecko can “choose” to be near it or not. A 40-watt bulb should be sufficient.
UV lighting is not necessary for the nocturnal Gargoyle gecko to synthesize vitamin D3 as it is with diurnal lizard species. It does
not hurt, however, and can be sued for display purposes (so you can see your new friend) or allow plants in the enclosure to thrive.
Gargoyle geckos can be kept on paper towel, leaf litter, moss and dirt-like substrates. Hatchlings should be kept on paper towel to
prevent them from ingesting substragte and choking.
FOOD AND WATER
The gecko's enclosure should be misted well once or twice daily, and it is fine to let it dry out between mistings. This will ensure proper humidity to allow for proper shedding, but not keep the enclosure too wet. The geckos will drink from the droplets of water that collect on the glass and tank furnishings.
Some keepers place a dish of water in the tank for their geckos to drink from and find success with this method, but many Gargoyle geckos will not drink from standing water. If you choose this method, keep in mind that misting is still necessary for proper humidity in the enclosure, and that the water dish should be shallow to prevent drowning accidents with smaller geckos.
Gargoyle geckos are frugivores, meaning they eat fruit and sometimes insects.
Many keepers feed their geckos a pre-made powdered diet called Repashy MRP (meal replacement powder), which can be ordered online or found at some pet stores. It's a complete diet, which means that as long as it's mixed according to the directions with water only, nothing else, not even crickets need to be fed to the gecko. You can still feed crickets if you wish, but they are not necessary. Any crickets fed should be dusted with a calcium/vitamin supplement.
Baby food was once considered a staple food for Gargoyle geckos, but now we are seeing the long-term effects of feeding only baby food. Even when supplemented with calcium and vitamins baby food provides very poor nutrition for adequate bone density. Baby food should not be fed due to its high sugar content. Nor should it be mixed with Repashy MRP, as it alters the balanced nutrition value of the MRP. Some may argue that baby food is safe for human babies, so why not geckos? Human babies are rarely ever fed a strict diet of only fruit baby food. They are fed a balanced diet including meat-based baby foods and other products to ensure full nutrition.
Gargoyle geckos can be fed 3 -4 times a week, and some examples of good feeding regimens include:
1. Repashy MRP 3-4 times a week.
2. Repashy MRP twice a week, crickets twice a week.
3. Repashy MRP twice a week , crickets once per week, smoothie once per week.
ILLNESS
FTS (floppy tail syndrome): FTS is thought to arise from several different factors. When Gargoyle geckos hang upside down on glass or other surfaces it could result in the tail hanging over its head for long periods of time, permanently bending the pelvis. FTS can be helped / prevented by adding lots of banches and other things to climp to the enclosure, so the gecko isnt' always hanging off the glass making it worse. As well, proper supplementation helps to enssure healthy bones. FTS does not prevent the gecko from living a healthy and happy life, and often does not interfere with breeding, depending on the severity (females with twisted pelvises will have difficulty laying eggs and this should be taken into consideration
.Autonomony (tail loss): Gargoyle geckos have the availability to drop tehir tails when the feel threatened. In the case of Gargoyles they do grow back. If the gecko looses its tail it's best to place the gecko on paper towel to prevent any tank debris from getting on the wound, and the gecko will take it from there.
Wounds: When housed with other geckos, it is typical that a bite or two might happen. Many will heal on their own, but Polysporin is safe to use on cuts or bites that look as if they could get infected.
Internal Parasites: A common disease causing internal parasite in Gargoyle Gecko's is Entameoba invadens, which needs to be diagnosed and treated by a veterinarian. If left untreated too long it can be fatal. Other internal parasites are also possible in Gargoyle's, and can be diagnosed by your veterinarian via a stool sample. Signs of E. invadens infection include weight loss, lethargy and generally poor condition.
Egg Binding: Egg binding is relatively common in female Rhacodactylus geckos with the Gargoyle gecko being no exception. All female geckos are at risk, though those on poor diets or bred too young are at a higher risk level than those that are of proper breeding size and on a good nutritional plane. Signs of egg binding include failing to drop both eggs in a clutch, failing to lay a clutch at the expected time, anorexia and lethargy. Egg binding is normally an emergency by the time it is recognized, and typically needs to be corrected surgically. If you suspect egg binding take your Gargoyle gecko to a good exotics veterinarian with an interest in reptiles as soon as possible.
If you suspect any of these conditions, please contact your exotic animal veterinarian. The typical small animal practitioner may not have sufficient knowledge in this area. Even this guide is general in nature and should not be used to diagnose your pet.
BREEDING
Gargoyle geckos are very easy to breed. All you need is a male and at least one female. Breeding groups can consist of up to four females if desired. The geckos should be placed in the same enclouse and at first closely monitored to ensure they are compatible.
The geckos will breed readily provided the temps are not too cold.
Female Gargoyle geckos should be between 45-50 grams to be bred, and males should be around the same weight to prevent fighting/bullying. Females can lay between 8 - 12 clutches of two eggs per season, roughly one clutch every month. Before and after breeding seasons, the geckos should be separated and "cooled", given an opportunity to take a break from the stress of breeding and replenish any weight or calcium lost. The calcium intake of breeding and laying females should be closely monitored, as "calcium crash", the loss of too much calcium from laying eggs, can happen over night, resulting in a very sick gecko.
A lay box should be provided for laying females. The lay box can be as simple as a plastic container full of peat moss, eco earth, or potting soil with a hole cut in the top for the gecko to enter and exit the box. Moswt geckos will lay eggs in the lay box if that is the only medium provided, but some will lay in potted plants or in the substrate if available.
Eggs can be incubated at room temperature (70-74 degrees) and will hatch anywhere from 60-120 days later, depending on the temperatures.
Gargoyle geckos are very easy to breed. All you need is a male and at least one female. Breeding groups can consist of up to four females if desired. The geckos should be placed in the same enclouse and at first closely monitored to ensure they are compatible.
The geckos will breed readily provided the temps are not too cold.
Female Gargoyle geckos should be between 45-50 grams to be bred, and males should be around the same weight to prevent fighting/bullying. Females can lay between 8 - 12 clutches of two eggs per season, roughly one clutch every month. Before and after breeding seasons, the geckos should be separated and "cooled", given an opportunity to take a break from the stress of breeding and replenish any weight or calcium lost. The calcium intake of breeding and laying females should be closely monitored, as "calcium crash", the loss of too much calcium from laying eggs, can happen over night, resulting in a very sick gecko.
A lay box should be provided for laying females. The lay box can be as simple as a plastic container full of peat moss, eco earth, or potting soil with a hole cut in the top for the gecko to enter and exit the box. Moswt geckos will lay eggs in the lay box if that is the only medium provided, but some will lay in potted plants or in the substrate if available.
Eggs can be incubated at room temperature (70-74 degrees) and will hatch anywhere from 60-120 days later, depending on the temperatures.
