DWARF SUNGAZERS
WRITTEN BY: JEROME BAILEY
scientific name=Cordlyus Tropidosternum
these are commonly known by other names such as girdled lizard and armadillo lizards.
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION
They are found in Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe the have spikes down the back and tail are browny colour with black and white/grey spots and a white belly they are about 7"-10" (inc. tails).
HOUSING
These lizards will climb if they can. I wouldn’t say they were arboreal more semi however still give them space to climb. I would say a 60x45x60 Exo terra would hold two however more space is always better. Only one male should be held per enclosure. Only one male with multiple females can work, however, this is not guaranteed so be prepared to separate. If you are going to add a new lizard to the cage it should be quarantined for at least 3 months so you can monitor it for any illness or parasites. This is very important to do as illness may not show up straight away and may pass it on to other animals. The animal should be held in a different cage/viv and preferably a different room.
TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY
A cool side at around 20c is acceptable with a basking spot of 33-37c.
A 10 or 12% U.V tube should be used as they are diurnal.
Incorrect lighting can cause problems such as metabolic bone disease.
RH(humidity) should be around 50%.
DIET
Dwarf Sungazers are Insectivorous, although fruit will be taken occasionally all food should be no wider than the gap between it eyes.
foods to be used as a staple:
Dubai Roaches ,Crickets ,Locusts
occasional:
Mealworms ,Pheonix worms etc.
rarely:
Waxworms (highly addictive and high in fat)
I have heard of mango and banana being taken by them however bananas bind calcium so should be fed rarely.
GUT LOADING/ SUPPLEMENTS
Food should be supplemented with calcium dust(no d3 or phosphorus) on weekdays and Nutrobal on the weekends(available from any decent rep shops).
Bee pollen granules can be used to feed/gut load live food or can be ground into dust and dust live food occasionally(available from Holland and Barret or pro reptile).
SEXING AND BREEDING
Sexing is difficult with this species in particular most people sex by the shape of the body females are slim and have sweeping curves whereas males are more broad both sexes have femoral pores.
According to the Talbo(linked below) site breeding requires brumation/hibernation for 6-8weeks at 10-15c. before brumation is initiated food should be slowly cut down until you do no feed and lighting should be slowly shortened this will give them time to digest the food and then slow down their metabolism if they are feed while they are about to Brumate or while they are Brumating food will rot inside them.
However, I have spoken to a polish breeder who informed me that he had breed this species without Brumation he told me that in November-January to increase humidity
Here is data regarding their climate. The humidity and rainfall is the main focus however I suppose the ambient temperature could be changed according to the data but there should always be a cool side and a basking spot within 33-37c
these are commonly known by other names such as girdled lizard and armadillo lizards.
LOCATION/DESCRIPTION
They are found in Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe the have spikes down the back and tail are browny colour with black and white/grey spots and a white belly they are about 7"-10" (inc. tails).
HOUSING
These lizards will climb if they can. I wouldn’t say they were arboreal more semi however still give them space to climb. I would say a 60x45x60 Exo terra would hold two however more space is always better. Only one male should be held per enclosure. Only one male with multiple females can work, however, this is not guaranteed so be prepared to separate. If you are going to add a new lizard to the cage it should be quarantined for at least 3 months so you can monitor it for any illness or parasites. This is very important to do as illness may not show up straight away and may pass it on to other animals. The animal should be held in a different cage/viv and preferably a different room.
TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY
A cool side at around 20c is acceptable with a basking spot of 33-37c.
A 10 or 12% U.V tube should be used as they are diurnal.
Incorrect lighting can cause problems such as metabolic bone disease.
RH(humidity) should be around 50%.
DIET
Dwarf Sungazers are Insectivorous, although fruit will be taken occasionally all food should be no wider than the gap between it eyes.
foods to be used as a staple:
Dubai Roaches ,Crickets ,Locusts
occasional:
Mealworms ,Pheonix worms etc.
rarely:
Waxworms (highly addictive and high in fat)
I have heard of mango and banana being taken by them however bananas bind calcium so should be fed rarely.
GUT LOADING/ SUPPLEMENTS
Food should be supplemented with calcium dust(no d3 or phosphorus) on weekdays and Nutrobal on the weekends(available from any decent rep shops).
Bee pollen granules can be used to feed/gut load live food or can be ground into dust and dust live food occasionally(available from Holland and Barret or pro reptile).
SEXING AND BREEDING
Sexing is difficult with this species in particular most people sex by the shape of the body females are slim and have sweeping curves whereas males are more broad both sexes have femoral pores.
According to the Talbo(linked below) site breeding requires brumation/hibernation for 6-8weeks at 10-15c. before brumation is initiated food should be slowly cut down until you do no feed and lighting should be slowly shortened this will give them time to digest the food and then slow down their metabolism if they are feed while they are about to Brumate or while they are Brumating food will rot inside them.
However, I have spoken to a polish breeder who informed me that he had breed this species without Brumation he told me that in November-January to increase humidity
Here is data regarding their climate. The humidity and rainfall is the main focus however I suppose the ambient temperature could be changed according to the data but there should always be a cool side and a basking spot within 33-37c
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TEMPERMENT
They are skittish and do not really enjoy being held but some may tolerate handling in time.
SUBSTRATE
Substrate is highly debated over loose substrate or kitchen roll etc. It is a personal choice but I will list possible substrates recommended:
eco earth
play sand
Exo terra sand
kitchen roll
newspaper
lino
excavator clay
do not use:
calci sand(http://www.petzoo.co.uk/product_info...roducts_id=467
woodchip
kiln dried sand/builders sand(this is notorious for having peices of glass in which could cut your lizard and if ingested would cause potentially fatal internal bleeding).
MIXING SPECIES
I have heard of these being mixed with leopard geckos with success I do not personally do this but have heard of it being done with success in larger cages.
RESOURCE
http://www.tallbo.com/index.shtml
TEMPERMENT
They are skittish and do not really enjoy being held but some may tolerate handling in time.
SUBSTRATE
Substrate is highly debated over loose substrate or kitchen roll etc. It is a personal choice but I will list possible substrates recommended:
eco earth
play sand
Exo terra sand
kitchen roll
newspaper
lino
excavator clay
do not use:
calci sand(http://www.petzoo.co.uk/product_info...roducts_id=467
woodchip
kiln dried sand/builders sand(this is notorious for having peices of glass in which could cut your lizard and if ingested would cause potentially fatal internal bleeding).
MIXING SPECIES
I have heard of these being mixed with leopard geckos with success I do not personally do this but have heard of it being done with success in larger cages.
RESOURCE
http://www.tallbo.com/index.shtml
THANKS JEROME!